Kenwood R-1000
I've made a few modifications to my R-1000.
First change was to add a jack for a +12V input, since I wasn't
willing to pay the high price for a factory mod. Image shows the
connection point on the power supply board. I wired a 1N4001 diode
in series with the wire to the added connector to protect against
reversed polarity. The cathode of the diode is soldered to a point
on the PS board near the connector the real external power connector
would be plugged in. The anode of the diode goes to the white wire
shown. A hole was drilled in the black plastic covering the external
power supply connector chassis cutout and coaxial power connector
installed. The center pin of the connector goes to the other end of the
white wire, and the connector barrel wired to chassis ground.
Twice within the last year, I had to replace all the front panel lamps.
The S-meter lamp is accessed by removing the front panel, pulling out the
meter, and removing the bracket behind it. My replacement bulbs were from
Radio Shack, rated at 12 volts, but the voltage to the lamps was a little
over 14 V. The bracket is seen in the lower right corner of the photo.
This closeup of the S-meter lamp bracket shows the 82 ohm resistor I wired
in series with the lamp. This reduces the voltage to the lamp, and greatly
reduces the current surge when the radio is turned on. The starting surge
when the lamp filament is cold and a low resistance is when lamps usually
die. A similar resistor was wired in series with the lamp behind the
Frequency dial.
The mode switch was replaced with green LED's. Four LED's were wired in
series, along with a 470 ohm resistor, and mounted on the mode switch
reflector bracket so as to shine on each of the mode switch pushbuttons.
The LED's are held in place with hot melt glue. Works well, but perhaps
not worth the trouble. Most LED's emit light in a narrow cone, so I didn't
change the meter or frequency dial to LED's. LED's on those would likely
have resulted in small circles of light in the center of the meter or dial
rather than even illumination.
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Copyright © 2004 John Kolb
Last revised Jan. 27, 2004
First change was to add a jack for a +12V input, since I wasn't
willing to pay the high price for a factory mod. Image shows the
connection point on the power supply board. I wired a 1N4001 diode
in series with the wire to the added connector to protect against
reversed polarity. The cathode of the diode is soldered to a point
on the PS board near the connector the real external power connector
would be plugged in. The anode of the diode goes to the white wire
shown. A hole was drilled in the black plastic covering the external
power supply connector chassis cutout and coaxial power connector
installed. The center pin of the connector goes to the other end of the
white wire, and the connector barrel wired to chassis ground.
